This post was written by Jewish summer camp enthusiast, babka babe and Delicious Israel guide Leora Mietkiewicz, who makes us very hungry and just as happy with her amazing creations in Instagram. Follow her at @leoraeatkiewicz - you won’t be disappointed!
There is nothing more exciting than setting my alarm on Thursday night, knowing what awaits me Friday morning. Fridays in Israel are really like Saturdays in America, so yes, I am a little crazy. I must also say that the following is a secret, a hidden gem known only to a select few… one that I am willing and eager to share with my Delicious Israel family and friends. Without further ado, here’s why I am okay starting the weekend off with bags under my eyes, why I leave the house with a messy hair-bun (not my last bun for the day!) but also with a big smile. And why I accept the fact that it’s okay to leave my apartment without a sip of my daily cup of basic (instant) coffee. Two words: Machane Yehuda (מחנה יהודה), otherwise known as the shuk (Hebrew for market), in the heart of Jerusalem. That’s right. By 7:00 AM, I have an exciting and passionate date with the one and only Machane Yehuda.
My love for the shuk began 7 years ago and grows stronger each and every day. Every time I’m at the shuk, I meet new people, discover new fruits, try new spices and learn new ways to use them, and enjoy brand new experiences. But on Fridays, Shabbat (Sabbath) is only hours away and what seems like the entire city (and I) need to get ready. Simply put, the shuk is electric with energy.
No two Fridays are alike for me. My route looks slightly different, depending on whether I am hosting a Shabbat meal for friends, being a guest, or what my tastebuds are craving.
However, here is my usual schedule until 9:30 AM. After then, it can take very drastic turns as the shuk fills up with shoppers and eaters.
1. Russell’s Bakery מאפיית ראסל
Leaving my house at 7:00 AM on the dot, I arrive at Russell’s by 7:07 AM (I had hoped to live only five minutes away from the shuk, but I’m okay with the extra 2-minute journey.)
This bakery borders the main part of the shuk and is a great “entrance” to my Friday adventure. Russell’s Bakery is a strong and powerful establishment. Powerful? Yes, powerful. Their breads are rich in yeasty flavour and full of passion (you can taste the passion, I swear.) Some call this bakery the best in town, and I think I agree. On Fridays, they sell a perfect bun that is filled with raisins and heavily coated in sugar. In Hebrew, they are called שוויצרי - “Shvaitzari”, meaning Swiss. I assume that they are a variation of the famous Swiss bread Hefekranz, which are also sweet and filled with raisins. They are a treat, and they sell out fast - like really fast - and for a good reason, meaning I head to Russell’s before I even get a proper coffee in my system.
2 HaDekel St.
(Before I continue, please allow me to interject this shameless self-promotion. In addition to taking my daily solo treks to shuk, I also have the greatest job in the world working as a Culinary Guide for Delicious Israel. If you haven’t taken a tour yet and my description is making you salivate, or if it’s time for a return visit, I encourage you to check out our tour options and join me or one of my colleagues for an exciting, insider’s tour. One of my favourite things about working for Delicious Israel is the connection that I have made with the shuk’s colourful vendors and store owners.)
Which brings me to my next stop…
2. Marzipan Bakery (מרציפן)
Whether I am hosting or being hosted, a stop at Marzipan Bakery, a legendary Jerusalem institution, is always in order. And I come for more than just the delicious treats, including the rugelach, which are actually so famous that around here, they are called marzipan rather than rugelach! This is only because of the name of the store - no, there is no real almond paste in them, and no connection between the word marzipan and these delicious goodies. I come to see Iztik, the owner, and simply wish him a “Shabbat Shalom” greeting before Shabbat comes in. I know that everyone works long and hard at their jobs, but I don’t think anyone works longer and harder than this friend of mine. Wishing him this Shabbat Shalom depends on how long and hectic the bakery line is. While I do love the rugelach, I typically buy a case of “babka ends.” What are babka ends? Babka is a sweet, dense yeast cake, and Marzipan’s version is extra good. Marzipan likes to sell babka with razor sharp edges, so they cut off the blunt ends. What happens to all those rejected ends? Now you know!
44 Agripas St.
3. Pe’er Bakery (מגדניית פאר)
7:22 AM: Challah time! There is nothing, absolutely nothing better than airy, FRESH, sweet challah. I’ve tried most challah egg-breads in the shuk but nothing compares to Pe’er Bakery, located on Etz Hayim Street, in the inside shuk. You can’t miss them because of their shine. Now that i’ve told you about Pe’er, if you happen to get there before me and they are running low, buy me a challah, would you? I’ll come find you!
33 Etz Hayim St.
4. Roasters Coffee House
Last but certainly not least, 7:30 AM means I am finally at Roasters having my coffee. Lasting 45 minutes without coffee from the moment that my alarm goes off, until now, is an accomplishment. The only reason I can endure it is knowing Roasters is waiting for me. Well, actually, usually I’m waiting for it because there is always a lineup, though at 7:30, I am typically in the clear. Depending on the season, my order can change, but there is nothing like my classic “Hafuch” coffee which means “opposite” or “upside down” in Hebrew. The name comes from the “backwards” order in which the drink is made, starting off with steamed milk and topped after with shot of creamy espresso, surrounded by even creamier milk. Roasters only uses 3.25% milk and soy, because they believe we should always treat ourselves, and there’s nothing like it. I sit on their chair (which is really two stacked, wobbly cans that were once filled with coffee beans) and do nothing more than sip, breathe and observe. Having stocked up on my favorite finds, as I drink my coffee and watch the crowds just beginning to form, I think to myself: Fridays at the shuk are energetic, rushed, stuffy, passionate, lively and loud. They are just my cup of tea - or more accurately, my cup of coffee.
20 HaAfarsek St.
Although my Friday morning adventure usually focuses on baked goods and coffee, there is so much more to feast on at the shuk. Join me in my next blog as we feast.
Better still, join me in person as we explore and sample the wonders of Machane Yehuda!!
